Monday, February 2, 2009

Daily Life


What is a day like in the life of a Chinese person? Well, much like America, it depends on whose shoes you are wearing. Take for instance our bike guard downstairs who is probably in his late seventies. He wakes up early, opens his front door (the bike shed), starts a fire in a can with scrap wood and cardboard, lights his foot and half long pipe and sits down. He pretty much stays in this position until nightfall when the fire may get moved inside the shed. He is usually joined by friends and the gate guard who all huddle around the fire on stools 6 inches high, talking, knitting and smoking. He goes to bed around10pm and locks the door. If you come in after that and want to put your bike away, he has to get out of bed to let you in. He is friendly and loves it when we give him our cardboard boxes. Since we figured out that we have to pay to keep Frank's bike there, he smiles at us every morning.

Or, take the girls and boys who work at the plethora of restaurants on our street. At about 9 am, they are squatting on the side walk, peeling garlic, rinsing vegetables, cutting chilies, salting meat and cleaning windows. After that is all done, they may play badminton or jump rope until customers start arriving. After the lunch rush, they will squat outside again, doing dishes and prepping more veggies for the dinner crowd. They work very hard for very little but usually they are smiling. There are more types of work than I can mention here. Many are food related. Food stands abound and people of all ages work them. They sell fresh pineapple halves, baked potatoes from a metal drum oven, roasted chestnuts, meat on a stick, stinky tofu, noodles, fried potatoes, fried "hotdogs", etc.
Parents and grandparents are seen early in the morning taking kids to school on the back of their bikes, scooters, or just their backs. Many older ones use the morning hours to excercise on gym equipment that in the states would be a child's playground. Some dance or do TaiChi in the courtyards of their apartments and spend the day playing mahjong, cards or knitting. The weekends are the best, especially if you visit the local parks. People young and old come to dance, sing and play music. They are a very hard working people and are willing to do whatever puts food on the table. I have seen street sweeping women run in front of oncoming traffic to pick up a piece of trash; young, slightly built women hauling sand, bricks, huge chunks of concrete; elderly men and women collecting plastic and cardboard from wherever it can be found. There are people who shine shoes sitting next to fortune tellers who sit next to a little old lady selling delicately knitted baby shoes. The list goes on and on. Their diligence and humility is an amazing thing to behold... and perhaps, to imitate.























































Suggestion Box

Frank has asked for ideas on things to blog about. I would like to do the same. Some of you have already made some great suggestions. Is there anything in particular you would like to know from my point of view? Keep sending your ideas and we will tackle them one at a time. Thanks for all the support.
mandy

Quiche

I was in a cooking mood the other day and hit the kitchen. Here is the chinese version of my bacon and spinach quiche:

Crust:
1C all purpose
dash of salt
2-3 large spoonfuls chilled bacon fat
water
Mix flour and salt, cut lard into it until crumbly, add water by spoonfuls until dough leaves the side of bowl then turn out onto floured counter top. Use floured wooded knitting needle to roll the dough out to desired size for your pan. Lay crust in pan and crimp edges. Cut off excess and use leftover dough for pot pie crust
Filling:
4 Eggs beaten
salt and pepper to taste
maybe 1/2 C cream or milk
handful green leafy vegetable that looks like spinach but isn't really
half an onion diced
3 slices bacon
big handful shredded cheddar cheese 3/4-1C
Cook bacon till crisp, chop finely. Toss veggies in the grease and saute. In separate bowl, beat the eggs, salt, pepper and cream. Add rest of ingredients, mix and pour into crust. Cook in toaster oven at 180C or about 350F for about 20 min or until egg mix sets and browns on top. Enjoy.
I made pot pie with the leftover chicken and veggies in the fridge and made a lattice top crust. Wasn't pretty but everybody liked it.

Super Bowl China-Style

While we are compiling memories, let us add the worst superbowl party ever to the list! In order to watch it live, we had to get up at 6:30, that's am, and find a live stream online. We had friends coming over, so I had to actually be cheerful this early. At least I thought I did until everyone arrived and I realized none of us were morning people, then there was no pressure. Get your own coffee. We found the pre-game show on both our computers, they were about 30 sec. apart and Frank's would only work in a minimized screen, about 4 inches square. My sister skyped me so I paused mine to say hello to the kids and that was all she wrote for my stream, never did get it back from that site. Soon we had three laptops frantically looking, right before kickoff, but the only one available was with chinese commentators. You cannot watch the SuperBowl without John Madden's voice and pen, it just isn't done. Finally one computer got a stream and we shut the others down just in case. Meanwhile, we started cooking: bacon, pancakes, strawberries, and pineapple with coffee and juice. There were five of us, but when four pancakes were done... the gas ran out. Seriously, we ran out of gas and couldn't cook. For those of you who know me best, hosting and cooking are my forte. How embarrasing! It took over two hours and many phone calls to locate a company that could first find our apartment and then bring us a fresh tank. Ahh, sweet memories! Then, as the cardinals ran the field for a touchdown to take the lead, with only two minutes left, our live stream died. I would like to take this moment to thank our dear friends in Batesburg for having superbowl parties and skyping at the same time. We were talked through the last minutes with a skype play by play. It was indeed a memorable event whether we want to remember it or not. We did count our blessings, at least we had access to the game all the way over here. It was fun having people over, we were able to trash talk with friends back home and we have plenty to laugh about.
Mandy

Sunday, February 1, 2009

In Like A Lion, Out Like A Lamb


Is it possible that ChunJie is over?!!! This morning, I woke up, not to the sound of bombs blasting in the street below, but to... nothing! Is this what quiet sounds like? Amazing! It was so peaceful that I could hear the soft hiss of our coffee pot percolating in the kitchen and the splash of water in the pipes from the apartment above. Both gentle and soothing. I am still expecting the noise to start at any moment. It may, but for now, I will revel in this silence.
mandy
"Sometimes the best sound, is none at all."
-mandy


Saturday, January 31, 2009

Why We Are Here

Sometimes I sit and ponder this. Why are we here? What possessed us to travel to the other side of the world, to settle in a country where almost nothing is familiar and everything difficult to understand? What were we thinking? Then I look at pictures like the ones below. Our friends back home who have no one to talk to, and I remember why. Because we needed to. Because we could. Many of you know that my first response is usually to blame Frank, but I truly understand now that he was only a very small part of it. And there is very little blame left now. I do find it difficult to be away and I often think of those we left behind. Every day in fact. But I am usually able to combat the overwhelming emotions by staying productive and active. Remembering why we are here. Sometimes personal desires must wait. That is only one of the many lessons I am learning here. I only hope I can continue to be a good student.
Mandy
Let thy Child's first Lesson be Obedience, and the second will be what thou wilt
Benjamin Franklin


Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Silence is Golden

About half an hour from the city you can find the sound of silence in a beautiful park. Most people are home with their families during Spring Festival, so the park was relatively empty. We spent the day there preparing ourselves for the noisy week to come. The cherry blossoms welcomed us with their sweet fragrance and the coy and goldfish followed us as we circled the pond. No car alarms, no "bombs" exploding, just birds chirping and children playing. Sweet serenity! This park is steeped with thousands of years of history. The monks wore black with their hair in buns on top of their head. The gentle sounds of an old man playing the two stringed "banjo" filtered up to us as we climbed to the summit. How many people, wondered Frank, have traversed these steep hand-hewn stairs over the past thousands of years? Whose steps were we walking in? Picturesque scenes awaited us around every corner and it was like stepping forward in time, when the worries of today will no longer be remembered. We enjoyed a rather large lunch beneath an old hotel. Kung Pao Chicken, Bai Cai (sauteed Napa Cabbage), potato slivers with garlic and chilies, two types of stir-fry pork, and a bowl of rice big enough to feed 6 people. Somehow we finished most of it. Maybe the fresh air stimulated our appetites. Our day of quiet and beauty had come to an end. But our appreciation for the beautiful things made for our enjoyment was enhanced, our spirits lifted and our minds reset for the goals at hand.
Mandy








Monday, January 26, 2009

ChunJie Begins!

You are getting two reports of the festivities here, one from each of us. Things are crazy here right now. I think any evil spirits they thought were about have all been chased away by the fireworks last night, this morning and now, noon. Earplugs are a must have this time of year. Last night it was impossible to sleep since it was the first day of ChunJie. We decided to brave the cold and walk around outside for a little while. Armed with earplugs, ear muffs and a hat that covered them, we set out. I was immediately grateful for the mufflers as the noise was so loud, it made the ground beneath our feet rumble and our stomachs quiver. From our apartment, we could feel the vibrations too, as if our city were under attack, but not like this! There were officers standing nearby but only to make sure that certain types of fireworks were placed in a box before lit, since they danced and sent sparks everywhere. They did not however, keep little children from standing amongst the lit pipes. One child was hitting the ones that had been set off already. I had to turn my head so I would not witness him losing a finger or two. Where were his parents? Nothing happened to him thankfully and finally a lady told him to get away. There were little unsupervised pyros everywhere. The bouquets of colors that exploded right over our heads were beautiful and frightening at the same time. All that firepower, how do more people not get injured? I know, I sound like my mother. But one man who spoke pretty good English told us that some people go blind on this night and even die. Am I the only one who sees a problem with this? There were many fireworks used that I know would be illegal in the US. We got tired of the noise and decided to sit in McDonalds for awhile with a cup of coffee. There were more people there than I had ever seen! Staying open on this night was a genius financial decision. We warmed up and decided to head back to our apartment when the whole building began trembling. Everyone ran outside to see what was happening. The government had set up their own display in the park across the road. Wow! It was like the finales of all US fireworks displays put together, and then some. It must have lasted an hour. It ended as we reached the first floor balcony of our apartment building. Traffic was backed up as people just parked in the road and stood and watched. Why do we have such a fascination with fireworks? Is it the noise or is it the amazing ability to create stunning artwork in the sky with the light of a match? Whatever the reason, I wonder how fascinated we will be after the next week and a half? The noise continued all morning and our apartment often smells like the building is on fire since our neighbors light the loud popping ones right in the hallway. Welcome to China!
Mandy















Wednesday, January 21, 2009

ChunJie 春节

China has begun to celebrate its Spring Festival or Chunjie. It is perhaps the most important of all the celebrations here. Tradition holds that the Nian (Chinese for year) was a mythical beast terrorizing a village. The villagers put out food to appease it, as it devoured crops and even children when it appeared. Once, it was seen shying away from a child wearing red. From then on, the people knew to put up red banners on their doors and red lanterns to scare him away. They used fireworks to frighten him as well. The Nian never returned to the village. Eventually, he was conquered by a monk who used him as his mount. This festival is full of such superstitions and traditions that are followed by over a billion Chinese all over the world. Chunjie is traditionally 15 days long and each day has special significance with a certain food and activity to be carried out. You can do research on it further if you are interested. The fireworks have begun already although the official start date is the 25th this year. I have been told what we have seen is nothing compared to what it will be. I think I know what it sounds like in Iraq as mortars and shells explode overhead. Thankfully, there is no carnage here but the explosions often sound like gunfire and bombs. From our kitchen and bedroom windows we will have a front row seat to the fireworks as they begin to blossom in the night sky. Right now though, we mostly just hear them. Every night. All night.

Many Chinese use this holiday to return to their home villages and many foreigners use it as an excuse to get out of town to escape the noise. We have been told to get as many pictures and as much footage as possible now, before we can no longer stand the sight and sounds. This will be an interesting next two weeks. Many of the people we have met so far are headed out of the city. Somehow, though, there are more people here than ever before. I made the crazy mistake of going to the grocery store on the way home today. What was I thinking? We barely escaped unscathed. All the stores are packed to the hilt. Families with bags and bags of candy and gifts. I saw a woman stooped over dragging a basket full of goodies across the floor because it was too heavy to pick up. Apparently, buggies were scarce. I need to stock up and stay low. Here is a video of our evening as we head to bed. We wish everyone the pleasant, quiet night we will soon be wishing for. Sweet Dreams!

mandy

The amount of noise which anyone can bear undisturbed stands in inverse proportion to his mental capacity.
Arthur Schopenhauer (1788 - 1860) (Things that make you say "hmmmm...")

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Things, They Are A Changin'

We have spoken many times of how different things are here. That difference is part of what makes this country unique. Some things here are so "backwards" compared to our home countries and yet, when things change, we are not happy with that either. For example, the city has decided to relocate its center. Part of the domino effect of this decision is that many buildings are to be demolished. This includes a huge market that has been here for over twenty years. In the picture you can see there are two stories to the building as well as streets of tents and stalls. The top level are all homes of probably 1000 or more people. This entire area has to go. These people now have to return to their home villages and hopefully find a new line of work. The market itself has helped many of us get settled. Here you can find everything to set up an apartment and the men to deliver it, all for a fraction of the cost in the local Western stores. The people are friendly and talkative. They have their children with them all day long. They cook, clean, and do homework right in the shop. In only three months, we already have so many memories within these streets and alleys. We got our first lessons in Chinese haggling right here. We bought our bikes here, haggled for my first wok, set up my kitchen, found our phones here, and met so many nice people. But in a few days, it will be void of people and a few days more, void of buildings. Sometimes we are so grateful to see a Western store; a KFC, McDonalds, Pizza Hut, Starbucks. But other times we are just as grateful for the Asian way of life. The simple tent and stall markets which can provide all of life's necessities, the beautiful smiling faces that want to know everything about you even if you don't buy. I am going to miss this market. Perhaps another one will appear to replace it. These markets are part of what makes this country different. They make it unique.

mandy